In Banaras, food isn't just about filling your stomach, it's a tradition. And every dish here has its own time of day.
In this guide
Kachori-sabzi and jalebi (morning)
Mornings in Banaras begin with kachori-sabzi: crisp kachori, fiery potato curry and hot jalebi on the side. You will find it at sweet shops across Godowlia, Chowk and Lanka.
Tamatar chaat (evening)
A Banaras speciality you won't easily find elsewhere. Tomatoes, potatoes and spices are cooked together and served in a kulhad with crunchy namkeen. Godowlia and the lanes around Dashashwamedh are the best places to try it.
Malaiyo (winter only)
Milk is boiled and left out overnight in the dew, then whisked into foam in the morning. This light, saffron-and-cardamom sweet is only available in winter.
Lassi
Thick lassi in a kulhad, topped with a layer of malai. Many shops also make fruit lassi.
Banarasi paan
Banarasi paan is famous all over the world. First-timers should try a meetha (sweet) paan.
Launglata
A maida pastry filled with khoya, sealed with a clove, fried in ghee and dipped in sugar syrup.
Thandai
Made with milk, almonds, fennel and spices, thandai is especially popular during Holi and Mahashivratri.
Baati-chokha
Rustic Purvanchal food: fire-roasted baati, a chokha of brinjal, tomato and potato, and ghee on top.
Frequently asked questions
When is malaiyo available?
Only in winter, roughly November to February, because it needs the overnight dew to set.
